Via Ferrata on Jebel Jais – climbing and zipping adventures
As exciting as Abu Dhabi and Dubai are, if you love the feeling of freedom you get from being outdoor and near wide open spaces then you might gravitate towards RAK. Marketing itself as an adventure destination within the UAE, RAK boasts the highest mountain in the UAE, Jebel Jais. From here you can do the longest zipline in the world, climb via ferrata, go on guided hikes to wadis, go camping and soon you will be able to experience a sky maze which, quite frankly, scares the living daylights out of me. The zipline is fun but will cost you 300AED unless you wait for the summer or Ramadan promotions.
Rak Bedouin Oasis – Desert safari in comfort
One of the best desert safaris, in my opinion, is located at RAK Bedouin Oasis Camp. Here you can choose from a number of options where you can go on desert quad bike tours, camel rides, sand boarding, dune bashing (being driven fast up and down the sand dunes), henna painting, shisha smoking, overnight camping and enjoy an extensive buffet and small bar with live entertainment of traditional Turkish tanura dancing, fire juggling and belly dancing. Without transfers it costs about 150AED per person.
If this is all a little too outdoorsy for you, then there is a luxurious Ritz Carlton nearby where you can experience most of the above, for a lot more money, at a 5 star rating. The Ritz also offers horse riding and you can see Arabian Oryx roaming the grounds. There are fine dining and afternoon tea packages too and it’s worth checking out their festive themes when the time comes around.
Watching sunset with a festive Christmas afternoon tea package at the Ritz Carlton, Al Wadi desert.
If you want to get up close and personal with camels and oryx without spending that kind of cash then I recommend you take a detour down the aptly named camel road , which takes you through farmland, and you can see both. The camels here are well used to tourists stopping for a selfie so if you pick up some apples and carrots you will have the perfect bait for your social media wow factor. Just be warned, these camels don’t care about your perfect framing so, if you withhold snacks whilst you pose, you may find yourself in the middle of a camel scrum.
In the winter months you can opt to go glamping in RAK at the Bin Majid Resort nearby Flamingo Beach, which offers great options and activities for families. For a less expensive option you can get the camping experience on the public beach near Al Marjan Island although this is currently being elbowed out by a new beach resort being developed right next to it.
Al Marjan island – work out, eat and play!
Al Marjan island is equipped with an ocean-skirting running track, public park with kids play area and is also host to a multitude of resorts including the DoubleTree Hilton where you can take part in the best brunch in RAK (in my humble opinion). You can also enjoy kayaking or jetskiing here or at Turtle Beach just a little further out on the island. Opposite the DoubleTree, there is a public park and playground where you can rent electric scooters or peddle powered carts and bikes to trundle up and down the promenade next to the ocean views. There are some permanent food trucks set up here, including SALT which offer wagyu beef sliders to die for, cheeto fries, milkshakes and giant Jenga for your amusement.
Area 51 giving you a great Insta op with delicious food
While we are on the subject of eateries I have to give a shout out to Area 51 who offer great burgers and hotdog options and, hands down, win best milkshake in RAK. There’s also a quirky alien themed interior with horse riding saddles as bar stools, perfectly designed for some fun photos. Try it out and it will ruin all other milkshakes for you. Guaranteed.
The United Arab Emirates celebrated it’s 49th National Day on 2nd December, 2019. Comprised of 7 emirates; Abu Dhabi, where the crown prince reigns, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm al Quwain, Ras al Khaimah and Fujairah. Each emirate has it’s own sheikh and ruling families but all are united as a country. My parents and I got to watch just one of the scheduled National Day celebratory fireworks from JBR, The Walk, in Dubai.
My father, having a background in engineering and an interest in the feat of building such impressive structures in the desert, had expressed interest in visiting the UAE. My mother was, however, originally less enthralled with the idea, especially as she possesses the typical English rose style of complexion which demands sun parasols and liberal coatings of sun cream. And so it came about that I arranged for both of them to visit me for 9 days. For anyone coming from cooler countries, it is best to visit the UAE in the winter months from October to March, where the temperature will gradually decrease to average a pleasant 25C during the daytime.
As with any country, before you travel it is advisable to have knowledge of the laws of that country. Although maybe not seen as liberal when compared with some western attitudes, the UAE practices tolerance towards visitors from other cultures. With a population comprised of 82% foreign residents it is remarkable to witness the hospitable attitude and welcome offered by Emirati hosts. Do, please, check the medications you bring to the UAE to ensure they are not on the controlled and restricted list, as with any prescriptions it is recommended you bring the scrip with you. Contrary to popular opinion, you can purchase and drink alcohol in the UAE. Public drinking (not in a licensed premises) is prohibited. If in doubt, just ask. One of the most common questions I get are from women about dress code. You can wear what you like, just be respectful. Beach clothing is for the beach and on religious sites, like many other countries in the world, you will be expected to dress more modestly. Public displays of affection such as kissing and cuddling are not the norm. and although many hotels may operate under a don’t ask don’t tell policy, it is actually against the law to cohabit with a member of the opposite sex unless you are related by blood or marriage.
In Abu Dhabi, the capital city in the emirate of the same name, The Emirates Palace (owned by Kempinski) and Presidential Palace are located right next to each other There are afternoon tea packages available and I would highly recommend the experience if you care to dabble in luxury. The interior is lavishly decorated with marble and is dripping in gold and your Royal Afternoon Tea (499AED per person) is an echo of this as you are served beautiful and delicate bites topped off with the finale of a 23 karate gold flake garnished cappuccino. I let myself down by inhaling and spluttering on said gold and took it as a clear sign that this kind of treatment is not meant for the likes of me. A pianist and then harpist provided live musical accompaniment to our dining experience.
Qasr-al Watan, Abu Dhabi
At Qasr al Watan, aka. The Presidential Palace, you are once again impressed by the grandiose architecture. Two enormous doors are opened by permanently stationed doormen and you are left gazing, wide-eyed, at the finery and sculptures contained within. There are a number of different rooms contained within, such as the Great Hall, Library, House of Knowledge, Presidential Banquet and, my favourite room, Presidential Gifts. In this room was displayed the gifts brought by visiting heads of state and dignitaries – a crystal offering from my home country amoungst the many traditional swords and daggers with decorated scabbards, ornately covered Quarans and numerous other impressive pieces behind glass.
If you want to look like the chic Emirati ladies, you can purchase abayas and shaylas at the underground stores near the mosque, otherwise you will be donning smurf blue and monk red loaners which happen to be quite warm too. Golf carts are available for those with mobility issues to traverse the expansive grounds.
The Sheikh Zayad Grand Mosque lives up to it’s name and is, indeed, grand. As part of the must see tourist attractions of Abu Dhabi, be prepared to be amongst a lot of people. Abayas for women, and kandoras for men are available to wear if your dress is not appropriate, although do not expect them to be the sleek and stylish garments you will see Emiratis wearing. I had a rather unflattering shade of rose and was therefore not compelled to take many selfies. It’s well worth availing of one of the free tours for visitors. Led by an Emirati guide, you will be issued headphones and brought into the grand mosque where one of the most impressive facts and sights is that of the 12 tonne chandelier hanging from the center dome. The beautiful building is a functioning place of worship.
F1 at the Yas Marina Circuit, Abu Dhabi
My parents visit happened to coincide with the Formula One and as luck would have it, I was fortunate enough to receive free tickets as a thank you for participating as a judge the previous year in the F1 in schools contest. After parking at Yas Marina Mall, we took a free shuttle to the south grandstand and watched the qualifying race. Inside the venue you need to purchase a special card which you top up with your credit card in order to buy snacks and beverages. The F1 event management team travels with the F1, in effect Yas Marina Circuit temporarily hands the facilities over for the duration of the F1 and credit where it’s due, everything ran smoothly, with road traffic, security and pedestrian flow. Outside of race season it is possible to book Yas Marina Circuit experiences such as driving on the track or touring the facilities.
Some of my favourite pieces. The last being Bacchus the god of wine apparently too inebriated to get out of his giant chalice of wine. Relatable?
Recently in 2019, Abu Dhabi opened The Louvre, a rather impressive looking building housing an equally impressive collection or art and artifacts from around the world. This had been my second visit and I was struck , again, by how much there is to take in on a visit. You can rent audio guides at the entrance and wheelchairs are also available for those with limited mobility. In fact you can take a golf cart direct from the accessible parking to the entrance of the museum, making life much easier for those who would otherwise struggle. Entry is free for People of Determination plus one, along with the free rental of an audio guide. Regular ticket price is 60AED per adult and half that for senior citizens and children aged 13-22.
We spent just 2 nights in Abu Dhabi, however the emirate boasts many more exciting experiences. Like all the emirates, the city has coastal access to the ocean and therefore many beach or island adventures. There are also mangroves you can paddleboard or kayak around, parks and nature reserves, museums and cultural experiences and a plethora of dining options. There are numerous tour operators which will bundle a few experiences in together on a day trip with hotel pick ups – you can even base yourself in Dubai and organize a trip from there to Abu Dhabi. Dubai, which is often confused as being a country in and of itself, will be the topic of my next post.
Zanzibar airport is, shall we say, cozy. After landing you will walk across the tarmac to the arrivals lounge, here you will be given an arrival card and if you do not already have one, a visa application form. If you haven’t already gotten an E-Visa, you will need to pay $50. Both Tanzanian schillings and US dollars are used widely, I suggest bringing $50 cash just in case you need to pay in cash for your visa. After completing your forms an official will ask you “visa?” before directing you to a queue. You would be forgiven for thinking he means “travel visa” but if you have no credit cards to pay with I suggest you respond “Cash application” as it appeared to me there was one kiosk accepting cash only payment and another card only. You can only proceed to the immigration counter for your travel visa after having paid at one of the payment kiosks and receiving your receipt. I use the words counter and kiosk loosely here, as when you enter the arrivals lounge there are two long counters for filling in application forms followed by 3-4 kiosks with no signage. Officials will direct you to which one you need to queue in front of.
After getting your visa you will see one (yes one) baggage carousel, to the left is a kiosk selling sim cards. The wifi on the island generally sucks (don’t expect any Netflix and chill action) so I would recommend getting a sim card with some data backup. I purchased a Zantal sim pack with 2.5GB of data for $15.
Transportation from the airport and around the island is generally by taxi, I suggest getting a driver and using them for as much of your trip as possible, if you keep having to negotiate fares it may cost you more in the long run. After seeing the roads I wouldn’t recommend car hire unless you are going for a 4WD, most of them were unsurfaced giving you “free massage” as the drivers call it or motion sickness for the sensitive amongst us.
Zanzibar City aka Stone Town
Zanzibar was the hub of the East African slave trade up until it’s abolition in 1807 and in fact for some years after with a thriving black market. Natives of east coastal Africa who were the losing side in a tribal war or even those vulnerable to kidnapping would be ferried to Zanzibar and held in horrifying conditions until they were ready for auction. Men would be tied to a whipping tree where the amount of lashes they could endure would increase their price, women were paraded partially or unclothed, all were treated as if they were animals at a cattle market.
Up to 75 women and children were held here until it was time for the slave auction. The only sanitation available was where the ocean swept in through the center channel at high tide.
As uncomfortable as it is to be this close to some brutal chapters of human history, I recommend taking a guided tour around the town to truly appreciate the impact history has had here. Zanzibar was under the influence of the Portuguese, Oman sultanate and British and this as well as the traffic brought by the spice and trade routes is still evident today in the diversity you will see on the island. Islam, Christianity and Hinduism are practiced here and with this in mind, when outside of your resort or hotel remember to dress respectfully.
Stone Town is also famous as part the origin story of Freddy Mercury, you can see the house he lived in as a child and enjoy themed Queen themed cocktails at the bar named in his honour, which serves as a good venue for some beautiful sunset views. There are no end of shopping opportunities in the market and the stores squirreled away in the maze of narrow streets, get your kanga (large square of printed fabric used traditionally as clothing and worn many different ways), sarongs, coffee, spices and oils, traditionally carved wood and other souvenir items here and be prepared to bargain.
Prison Island
This island which you can reach by boat, a mere 20 minute ride from the town, was used to host a prison built by the Sultan. It never fulfilled it’s original purpose and instead became a quarantine area for anyone with contagious diseases. It is now Government owned in partner with a petrol company and is home to hundreds of tortoises, the oldest being 160. These surprisingly fast moving creatures love a good massage and if you bring a gift of cabbage and give their legs and neck a good massage you will have the unexpected pleasure of seeing what a blissed out tortoise looks like. The ethics of keeping so many of these enormous creatures in a relatively small area of land is however questionable and you will have to decide for yourself as to whether you believe the island is now living up to it’s name.
Safari Blue, an island hopping adventure
One of the popular tours where you can go island hopping is Safari Blue. I recommend asking your agent or hotel if they actually use this company or some other operators who follow the same itinerary. If in doubt you can book directly on their website. Having seen both, I can say the quality offered by Safari Blue is superior. I was unfortunate with the weather however, even as I shivered in the rain for most of the day, I could admire the beauty. You will be offered many turquoise blue Insta opportunities throughout the day. The lunch included is a delicious seafood (I had an entire lobster) and chicken grill with rice, chapati, chips and salad. After eating you are taken to see the giant grandfather baobao tree, patriarch to all other trees on the islands which graciously offers wonderful climbing prospects if you feel so inclined.
While the snorkeling did offer up tiger fish, sea urchins and other pretty tropical fish it was not spectacular in terms of diversity if you, like me, have had experienced a diving across a variety of tropical countries in the past. It did offer me the chance to try my full face snorkel mask and this was, as a result, one of the most comfortable snorkeling experiences I’ve had. There are a tonne of differing opinions on the safety of full face snorkeling masks but I am a convert and quite frankly if you are close to the surface and (in the case of a weak swimmer) using a buoyancy aid and/or flippers, I struggle to imagine what kind of life-threatening difficulty you could get yourself into.
Cheetah’s Rock, up close and personal with some big cats.
If you’re looking for a safari experience then you are best headed to the mainland of Tanzania. On Zanzibar there does, however, exist a sanctuary for animals in Cheetah’s Rock. The admission costs ($160 USD including transfers) allow Jenny and her team to continue the work or rescue, protection and pressure on local authorities to stamp out corruption which allows illegal trade of animal products or the overlooking of breaches of regulations safeguarding the treatment of resident wildlife and marine habitats. For your admission price you are given a detailed account of the animals you encounter. the stories behind their arrival as well as the rare opportunity to get close to them.
For those of your with concerns about the ethics of getting close to and touching these exotic animals, the trainers explain that the frequent contact with tourists is an important part of the care process at Cheetah’s Rock. Positive reinforcement delivered via treats allows the animals to build trust with humans so that, should they require medical attention or transportation, they can be exposed to new people without being sedated and risking further stress. They begin to associate being placed in a travel cage or being asked to lay down and have a stranger touch them with the delivery of something they enjoy, food and, in the case of one very happy striped hyena, back scratches. The encounters you experience are with a zebra, bush babies, monkeys, lemur, striped hyena, a white lion, a tiger and lion cub and two cheetah. You are given explicit directions before any encounter as to what you should or should not do.
Before you go in to meet the cheetah, the men in our group who are grey, bald or wear glasses are told to sit on the left side as the cheetah on the right is distinctly unfriendly towards them. My imagination ran riot as to how they discovered this cheetah’s dislikes in the first instance. We are all asked to remove jewelery or anything which may attract the attention of the cats and warned to keep feet tucked under as where we are seated and above all to avoid eye contact as this could stimulate a predator to instinctively attack. The big draw for the public is, of course, the photo opportunities and before we get our personal photo shoot we are briefed on the protocol. Jenny explains that the key is to keep things going, no multiple poses or dawdling as there is nothing a predator dislikes more than having to wait for their food. Like a well practiced military drill, guests walk around a trainer to take up position a respectable distance behind the cheetah which is seated on a tree stump. Meanwhile Jenny grabs fresh meat from a bucket strapped behind her waist and distracts the cheetah in some pre-established appetizer delivery routine before it receives the treat, while another trainer simultaneously takes photos with your camera. Occasionally the cheetah becomes impatient and lunges for the meat and Jenny has to reset to begin the process from the beginning again.
My favourite picture, featured below, shows the exact moment the cheetah turned around, suddenly totally disinterested in the limp lifeless meat dangling from Jenny’s fingers, and peers hungrily at my juicy cocktail and seafood filled summer holiday body. The photo perfectly captures where I froze in slack terror as my features and limbs surrender to fear and begin to dissolve into each other. You can see the half smile slowly sliding off the side of my face and, I’m sure, the sound of my heartbeat was surely audible to all onlookers. I remember thinking that I would be one of those articles in a newspaper which people shake their heads wisely, tutting “What else do you expect exposing yourself to a predator like that?”.
“This is it.” I thought to myself, “This is how I die.”
Nunghwi
Sunset view from Warare Beach Hotel
The spot for chilling on the beach and watching the sunset with a cocktail is at the North tip of the island from Kendwa up to Nungwi town on the tip and then around to Warare beach, where I stayed. Kendwa is where the younger more party vibe is and you can find the odd full moon party here. Nungwi is a pretty basic village, with resorts and hotels nearby. You can rent bikes here and explore by bicycle, however be prepared to have some sore buttocks if you are riding far as you will experience roads which look like they have recently been bombed. The taxi drivers call this a “free massage”, if you are prone to motion sickness I suggest you sit in the front and be prepared to pay in the region of $40 from Stone Town for the service.
From Nungwi you can do a number of snorkeling and diving excursions or privately organised fishing trips. By all reports, the snorkeling is much better here and you can choose to go to either Mnemba or Tumbatu island. By all reports the diversity of fish is the same at both islands although both the fish and people are more plentiful at Mnemba. Even though there are only 5 boats allowed at one time at this protected marine habitat, I am told it is not unusual to see more than double that amount during high season. Tumbatu is the more expensive of the trips, both include a bountiful seafood barbecue. I noticed that any of these excursions in from Nungwi would cost you at least $100.
Lessons learned
The general vibe in Zanzibar is chill, everything runs on island time so hakuna matata (don’t worry). If you want to try wind surfing the northeast side of the island is the place to be and the dolphin sighting tours will take you the the southern end. If I had the time to do this trip again I would have stayed one day in Stone Town before heading to Nungwi to relax at Warare Beach Hotel and do some snorkeling, possibly going horse riding ($30 – $70) to explore the town and swim in the ocean, before returning to Stone Town to take a day to Cheetah’s Rock and then another day for the town tour and shopping. I desperately wanted to swim with whale sharks, however to do this you need to take a flight to Mafia Island. The flight goes via Dar es Salem, Tanzania and costs approximately $150 each way and the Afro Whale Shark Safari for $60 which gets great reviews appears to be the crew to go with. If you don’t see whale sharks on your morning trip you can stack another trip in the afternoon for $50.
Island time is in full effect on Zanzibar and it is a great place to chill out – be prepared to spend a lot of money if you want to do all the things. I will visit again but next time will be splitting the costs with a plus one.
At the time of writing this you are required to apply for an E-Visa before entry. The website was buggy for me with multiple browsers refusing to acknowledge the drop down menu selections. I eventually realised success with Internet Explorer whereas my travel buddy got it to work on her iPhone. You will be asked to pay $50 and upload a passport photo to complete your application. I paid $6 extra for the express tourist visa and received approval within 10 minutes.
There really is no need to bring USD despite the information on the internet. There were ATMs in all the places we stopped off in. You can also purchase a tourist sim card in the arrivals lounge. There are a number of packages available, I opted for the 5GB with call credit for 6500 kyatt and it lasted me until Yangon.
Accommodation Options
During our stay we came to appreciate the Ostello Bello hostel group, with hostels in Mandalay, Bagan and Inle Lake. The one in Bagan has a pool, although it was closed for maintenance when I stayed, which I would highly recommend after a day of temple-ing. These hostels are some of the best I have stayed in catering to all the needs of a backpacker, a great breakfast, charging ports everywhere, travel desk, free tours (do have the courtesy to tip your guide if you avail of a free tour), toiletries, laundry, entertainment such as beer pong or movie night and even super comfortable day beds for those with an early check in or late check out.
Before our trek we stayed in Kalaw as the starting point of our trek was located here. The Pine Hill Resort has a heated swimming pool (Kalaw is at a higher elevation) and is set in beautiful mountain and forest surroundings. The staff are incredibly accommodating and there are even omelette chefs at the buffet breakfast. We paid less than $60 for one night.
In Yangon we chose accommodation close to the airport due to the limited time we had available between flights. The Inya Lake Hotel is a higher end choice of accommodation and cost us just under $100 for one night. The swimming pool is colossal and views of the lake spectacular.
Mandalay
The view from Mandalay Hill
Our first night in Mandalay, we were pretty beat from travelling and an early start so after showers and naps we walked to the Chinese night market where we ate a noodle hotpot and steamed fish with a couple of cold local beers for just 14,500 kyatt (around $10). We felt very safe walking around at night and with the local custom of honking as a warning to others, there was no fear of us straying into the path of a passing scooter.
Our first full day in Mandalay had us rising at 4am to go to the viewing point at Mandalay Hill to watch the sunrise. You will be asked for 1000 kyatt (around 70 cents) to enter here. On the way down we visited Kuthodaw Pagoda where the worlds largest book is housed in multiple stone tablets ensconced in their very own little white shrines.
After breakfast and a mini power nap our driver returned for us at 9 am and we left for some more sights via a gold leaf workshop and silk factory. At the gold leaf factory we watched as the workers pounded away at some gold sandwiched between bamboo paper and leather for 30 mins. This cycle was repeated multiple times to obtain the desired result. Of course, at the end of this little tour you are taken to the showroom to browse their products which included jewelry, hair accessories and 24 karat face cream at $50 a pop! The silk factory was a lesson in pre industrial revolution working life and watching the workers on their wooden looms weaving intricate patterns makes you reflect on how disconnected we have become from what we consume. As with the previous workshop you are ushered to a showroom where you can purchase all manner of silk clothing such as scarves from $15 upwards.
Weaving looms
Weaving silk scarves
24 karat cheek!
The big ticket Instagram pic location is Mingun white temple and if you want some stunning photography you will coordinate your outfit for colour contrast. The clear winner for temple outfits was P-Riddy in her coral and white ensemble.
Our day trip included all the temples, a tourist zone pass is required at 5000 kyatt and gives you access to all the main sights. It cost us 70,000 kyatt (less than $50) for our driver and air conditioned private taxi, we could have gotten a tuk-tuk for 50,000 but to be honest with the temperature in the mid 30’s we were truly grateful for the cool relief in between sights. With only one full day in Mandalay this was also the best option to get in all the possible sights in such a short space of time.
Doomed businesses which went under
Our ride for 5000 kyatt
Iconic U Bein Bridge
To get to Bagan we had wanted to take the slow boat which I am told offers great river views. Being low season we took the sleeper train instead. For only 4000 kyatt (less than $3) each we got a 2-berth bunk to Bagan. The train was the only mode of transport we couldn’t book through an agent or online. For tickets you need to go to the departure train station and purchase your ticket no more than 3 days in advance. The experience was a good one, and although the sleeper is basic and looks like it gets a cursory clean, it was comfortable. There is a ceiling fan which oscillates and the windows are best left open for ventilation. I strongly suggest opting for the bottom bunk as the positioning of the fan makes for a perfect redirect of bugs entering the window to jettison onto the top bunk, generally at about face level.
Bagan: Temples Galore
The view from Tower Hill (resort)
In low season, ballooning to see the vast expanse of temples scattered below you on a lush carpet of foliage, is unfortunately not an option. In high season this activity will set you back around $350 for a 45 minute flight. Having viewed the temples at sunset from the Viewing Tower (7,500 kyatt approx $5USD admission), however, I can imagine that a balloon is the optimum experience to grasp the expanse of history dotted beneath you.
To get around the sights on the ground you can rent an E-bike. These bizarre machines look like a scooter but reach a top speed of 35-40 (really though?) kmph. It feel like someone shrunk them ever so slightly and all my limbs and body parts felt comically just a little off scale to operate it comfortably. Take it from someone who did not – check the horn and brakes work and the wing mirrors stay in position when you drive. I paid 7000 kyatt (around $5) for a full day’s rental but was quoted 4000 for a day by another rental agency so it may pay to shop around or bargain.
I challenge even the hardest history nerd to not get templed out in Bagan. We had the benefit of a free tour through the hostel but with the relentless heat I found it incredibly difficult to focus on the information being imparted to us. The tourist fee for Bagan is 25,000 kyatt (less than $17), although our guide was at great pains to tell us only the main temples have checkpoints and if you avoid the main entrances you may not have to pay this fee. Although Myanmar has opened up to tourism in recent years, it is not, as yet, over touristed. This may be set for change though as the talk of becoming a visa free county for certain foreign nationals.
The bizarre and confounding machine dubbed the “E-bike”, my nemesis
We had inquired at our hostel about renting motorbikes but were told that foreigners cannot obtain a permit and therefore rent. However, we met with a Ukrainian man at Mingun who had, in fact, rented from an expat in Mandalay and was told that so long as he didn’t get into trouble and cooperated with police if stopped there shouldn’t be any issue. Yegor also told of some backpackers he meet who recounted that it is still possible to go off the beaten track and end up in a village where the locals scatter upon the sight of a foreigner walking through the streets. I myself found myself the recipient of many photo requests. My favorite must be the family who all squatted close to our tour group to watch as our guide gave us a mini history lesson. Soon the oldest matriarch came and gestured her wish to take a photo and over the next 20 minutes she encouraged various family members and total stranger’s kids to do the same before we dispersed, she returned proudly with a beaming smile to show me the laminated printout of the photo she had taken. It was such an adorable moment of innocent curiosity and connection and it tickles me to imagine it being displayed in her home and the stories which may accompany it told from her perspective that day. Be prepared to have your five minutes of fame if you are light skinned, with fair hair and blue eyes!
I can personally recommend the food in Unforgettable and Moon Restaurant, with a plethora of flavorful side dishes, in the first, and a green mango salad, in the second, which made me forget my love and fidelity to Thai papaya salad as soon as it touched my lips. I had read less than complimentary reviews of Burmese food but honestly did not get a single bad meal in my week stay. Burmese food has borrowed a lot of it’s flavors from nearby counties; Indian curries, coconut rice, stir fried noodles and tables are adorned with pickled chillis to add a little fire if so you desire.
Trekking: Kalaw to Inle Lake
A 6 hour 15,000 kyatt ($10 USD) minibus ride takes you to the higher and therefore cooler town of Kalaw and brings some reprieve from the heat. After our experience in the extremely cramped minibus I would recommend taking the less frequent yet larger bus for the sake of your knees and buttocks. The Pine Hill resort is a little slice of luxury with a heated pool, breakfast buffet to salivate over, complete with omelette chefs and real freshly brewed coffee and the most attentive staff I had seen so far in the trip. Admittedly this could be due to low season but I couldn’t help but giggle as after asking for directions to the bar at reception, we arrived a moment later to be greeted by all the reception staff and the bar staff to take our order. Don’t expect any great shakes (excuse the pun) in the cocktail department however, you will not be getting any hipster level mixology here despite the impressive looking drinks menu.
Our 2 day 1 night trek was organised through Jungle King trekking, although there are no shortage of trekking agencies in Kalaw. We took a tuk-tuk to Lamang village where you can buy rain cover and snacks at the market and began our walk. Our guide took us through fields of crops including corn, potato, avocados, chillis, ginger, tomatoes and rice terraces, we would pass families working the land, ploughing with oxen drawn ploughs, children would grin and wave calling “Meng-kla-bah” as we passed.
Spot the water buffalo
We learned from our guide that these striking white cows are cantankerous and averse to the smell of foreigners doused in suncreams and mosquito repellent. We followed his lead as he gave then a wide berth whilst they eyeballed us evilly, flicking their tails with malice and impatiently stamping their feet. We were almost upon two water buffalo living up to their names as they were all but submerged in a muddy pool. With barely an hour to go to our lodgings for the night, we stopped at a bamboo and stone hut which served as the local convenience store. Delighted to have a cold beer after walking in the sun, we kicked back at the tables while a group of young French men joined us, a guitar appeared from inside the shop and before long, there were beers, musical requests and songs in full flow.
Monastery digs
The sleeping arrangements at the 80 year old wooden monastery were basic with mats, pillows and blankets. The shower facilities are even more basic, there is a stone roofless outhouse around the back where you scoop water from a stone trough to bathe. Toilets are of the squatter variety. There is little need for an alarm click as the monastary cats enjoy tearing around in the pre dawn hours skirting your head and feet as they play catch. If the cats haven’t roused you, then the young monks most certainly will. Any notions I had of melodic chanting akin to the kind which accompanies 90s trance music were quite literally shattered by a cacophony of tuneless and unsynchronised yelling… clearly those chants are the work of older more practiced monks.
After a delicious breakfast of pancakes with fresh mango and pineapple the next 5 hours of trekking began, the terrain is slightly less muddy with a slightly rocky descent as you near Indein village. You will pass a little kiosk where you pay 15,000 (about $10) tourist zone fee, I wager if you were seriously strapped, you could get up early you can probably get away without paying as I saw the official walk past the monastery shortly after dawn. After our lunch stop we boarded a long boat and were ferried an hour through Inle Lake to Nyuang-shwe. On the way you can stop at multiple silversmiths and see the local long neck ladies. These women wear their first gold neck rings aged 9 and are gradually upgraded to a maximum of 24 rings. Back in older times the rings would reach 32, and when you feel the weight of them in your hand you have to wonder what kind of discomfort that must make for in everyday life.
Heho to Yangon – the final exit point
Time constraints being what they were, we took a flight from Heho airport, about a 40 minute drive from the hostel at Inle lake. This airport was one of the most chilled I’ve been to, the same guy who checks you in at the counter (singular) also boards you onto the plane. The security guy casually smokes a cigarette as he scans your carry on and waves you through with all the liquids. In saying that, as small as the departures lounge is, there are two little cafes and a shop for souvenir purchase and you have the thrill of watching your plane land and taxi directly up to the lounge window. We flew with Golden Mandalay Airlines and checked into a very lovely resort at Inya Lake.
Yangon is a bit of a Bangkok – lots and lots of traffic and I’m glad we left it until the last stop. If you want some serious shopping then go to Bogyok Aung San Market. We spent a very sweaty day shopping and exchanged our cash for some very pretty and comparatively inexpensive jewellery and bags, but be prepared to haggle and most places will deal in cash only.
I really enjoyed my time in Myanmar, the people are friendly and genuine, communication was never an issue and it was cheaper than Thailand for most things. As with most trips I take, I could have done with a lot more time. Go visit Myanmar soon, while tourism is still welcomed and the locals haven’t become jaded by over exposure and you will not be disappointed.
Transport when you land anywhere is always the first concern, I generally book a pick up with my accommodation so I don’t have to think about it. If you land in Phuket airport and are unable or unwilling to use public transport or wait for minibuses to fill up and make multiple drop offs (kiosks are outside arrivals) then proceed to the metered taxi kiosk (turn left outside of arrivals), they will ensure you get a taxi which uses the meter and you will be charged an extra 100 baht on top of the fare for the airport pick up fee.
Thailand offers a number of different sim packages at Bangkok International Airport, ranging from 5, 10, 20 and 30 day data and calling packs, however, I didn’t notice any in HKT. Purchasing and registering is done in a matter of minutes. I bought a package with Truemove (more info can be found in this blog) which gave me 15 days (50 baht call credit, 6GB high speed data) and didn’t run out, unlike my travelling buddy. Keep voice and video messaging until you get to wifi and this pack is more than ample.
Money makes the Thai world go round.
Unless you are simply swanning about in resorts you will find Thailand is a mostly cash economy. ATMs are prolific so it is very unlikely you will be stuck. If you are withdrawing on your credit card, be prepared to be charged both a cash advance fee and an ATM charge (220 Baht or approx $7 USD) so I would suggest getting out a good chunk of change with each withdrawal. You will need it for all those massages you’ll be getting at only around $20 a pop, it would be rude not to.
There is so much to do in Phuket it’s a challenge to get bored. You can try Muay Thai which will get you seriously fit. I did a 6 week camp some years back with Lion Muay Thai and was in the best shape of my life after. I started barely able to complete a 5km run and by the end my day started with a morning 10km run, an hour of training and then a 5km run and 2 hours of training, 6 days a week. Tiger Muay Thai is very popular with tourists and I have friends who loved it, but for me it wasn’t intimate enough. If you want some more information on different gyms, you can check out this site.
Yoga, spa days, Crossfit, cocktails, restaurants, watersports, cooking lessons – if you want to, you can make it rain with all your hard earned cash on this island. I chose low budget accommodation at under $95 for 9 days accommodation so that I could splurge on entertainment but there are no end of accommodation choices here for you to choose from.
Island Transportation
You can use the public buses, mini buses and tuk-tuks very easily but let’s face it, it’s nowhere near as fun as riding a scooter around the island! You can rent scooters from 150-200 baht a day and you will have no trouble finding rentals. You need an international drivers permit, by law and must wear a helmet. However, in saying that, I rented one without my international drivers permit and generally if you are stopped without the IDP or helmet you will likely just pay a cash fine to the police and be sent on your way. When you are paying 150-200 baht per spin up the beach then you will begin to appreciate the savings in having a rental. Uber no longer operates in Thailand, they use an app called Grab which is similar, however don’t expect it to be cheaper than a taxi.
Seafood and Pina Coladas for days
Food is one of my favourite things and if, like me, you are crazy about seafood then you absolutely have to visit Joy Karon Seafood. You can enjoy a platter of fresh crab, lobster, prawns, scallops, squid and a whole red snapper for less than 3000 baht (with drinks and entrees). If you arrive around 7pm you will also have the added bonus of seeing a Thai Captain Sparrow, breathe and juggle fire whilst walking a tightrope. Even if you have seen so many Phi-Phi island fire shows that this spectacle now leaves you cold, watching the wide eyed, open mouthed reactions of children seeing this for the first time is priceless. I visited Joy Karon so often during my stay that I was practically welcomed like a celebrity on my final day. The enthusiasm was probably 99% empathetic relief that for once I wasn’t eating alone but was joined by friends.
After eating a particularly fiery Thai curry one evening and searching for a liquid to soothe my tongue which also contaned alcohol, I discovered to my surprise that I like pina coladas and Phuket became the location for my search for the ultimate cocktail. If you are looking to keep costs down while you hydrate remember to bring a bottle with you and you can use the street side water refill vending machines for a couple of baht.
1st place pina colada
Seafood cocktail
P-Riddy demos water fill
Parasailing and Surfing
Every activity I wanted to do in Phuket seemed to cost 1500 baht approx $50. Parasailing was a first for me and there are multiple operators along Karon beach. The experience lasts less than 15 minutes and affords you a great view of the coastline. It was hella uncomfortable though as you are dangled from a harness connected to your Thai driver by the shoulder straps. You are essentially dangling at an oddly not vertical and not seated position which I found strained at my lower back as I dangled like an unmanned marionnette.
I found a surfing outfit a little further up on the same stretch of beach, although I would recommend trying Kata Beach as we ended up driving there for the less aggressive waves. Aot, my instructor was incredibly patient and encouraging for the hour and although I didn’t get fully upright, I loved it! Apparently my brain can only handle 2 steps in any sequence before needed to pause and regroup. This is sadly not feasible when, following step 2, you are hurtling towards the beach as the wave carries you in. In the words of Aot “Never give up!”.
Heeding this advice, I booked another lesson through AirBnb experiences on my last day in Phuket which i’m sorry to say turned out to be less inspiring than my first. Despite the positive reviews, it felt like this particular instructor was best suited to intermediate or advanced students and the whole instruction was rapid fire and unsuited to my particular brand of extra, extra slow learning style.
James Bond Island
This being my 13th visit to Thailand, I had done many of the excursions on offer before. I had not previously visited Phang Nga Bay, the location for The Man with the Golden Gun. Thailand is such a massively popular tourist destination that the sheer numbers of tourists battling for the perfect Insta snap can often take away from the enjoyment of a tour. With this in mind I opted for the Early Bird Premium Speedboat tour operated by Siam Adventure World. If you don’t mind the early 5-5:30 am start then you will bypass the usual bottle neck of tourists, you spend less time on the boat and there are a maximum of 25 people on each tour. The tour cost me 2900 baht approx $95 (low season) which included refreshments, fruit and toast and tea, coffee and juice for breakfast. A word of warning on the coffee to any fellow coffee snobs, you do need to check, even if it is in a filter jug, whether it actually is brewed coffee and not Nescafe (shivers).
You don’t even have to paddle your own canoe when you visit the lagoon through a cave. Our group were provided with bonus free entertainment in the form of two young American couples in their couple bubble clearly vying for a spot in the Most Selfies Taken in a Single Day contest. I was actually in awe of how many positions one could drape themselves over another human and whilst being propelled through water by a Thai lady who simultaneously had to pose in multiple group selfies.
Floating village with soccer pitch!
Jungle Elephant Sanctuary
How to mash food for gummy elephants by P-Riddy
The highlight of this trip (apart from the main wedding event) had to be the visit to the elephant sanctuary. This outfit is legit, for those of us who are still paying penance for those past tiger and elephant encounters in our days of youthful ignorance. The elephants here are rescued and live their days being cared for and bathed; you will see no elephant rides here! For 2900 baht you get to learn how the center volunteers and mahouts take care of the elephants. We helped mash up bananas and medicine for an elderly, toothless elephant, learned of the differences between Asian and African elephants (ears shaped like a map of India vs Africa, less wrinkly and more toenails to name a few), fed them bananas, then took them for a mud bath and went swimming.
Happy
Very happy
Blissfully happy
These huge gentle animals have a beautiful energy to them and wallowing in a mud pit in my bikini slathering them in mud as they rolled in delight is a memory which will stay with me forever. After mud baths we took them to a water pool and splashed water everywhere, I was in my element splashing around and giggling with delight as the elephants would turn making sure they got a good 360 shower or partly submerge and fart exquisitely in the ultimate relaxation maneuver.
Spot me! I am the super white person who chose to hang out next to a beautifully contrasting and attractive Goliath of a black man from Miami!
Me, glamorously modelling the serious s&$t of making poop paper!
The center has excellent and numerous shower facilities and provides shower gel and plastic bags for you to store your damp clothes and towel in after. They even have their very own elephant poop paper factory where you get to try making some handmade paper yourself and bring home a sample envelope as a souvenir. You will leave your half day at the sanctuary with a souvenir poncho, full heart from your experience and full belly from the yummy buffet lunch provided. The money you paid includes pick up and drop off at your hotel as well as free photography so you can truly live in the experience without pausing to get that perfect Insta shot.
Irish-Kiwi Wedding Extravaganza
So many happy tears watching these two legends tie the knot.
The whole reason for my return to Southeast Asia was to share in the celebrations of two wonderful women, Kathy from Ireland and Emma from New Zealand, who met in South Korea, get married in Thailand. I know, right… hashtag expat life or what? The pictures speak to the beauty of these ladies and their wedding location and almost matches the inner beauty of their awesomeness combined. Considering a destination wedding? You could do alot worse than choosing Phuket!
I used to painstakingly write down all my travel reservations in a little notebook which I would either end up misplacing or omit the one detail I actually needed when the time came. Whilst planning my current Thailand-Myanmar trip, I pondered on how to become rich by making an app which did all that for you. A quick search of the internet proved my idea was so good that someone had, in fact, designed one for me already! I give you, Tripit! I won’t bore you with all the details but basically you give the app elves permissions to your email and they magically shuttle all your reservations into a pretty itinerary timeline and then grey them out as they pass time.
If you suck at math, download this!
If you do not travel solo then you will quickly find that you and your travel companion often end up splitting costs or covering for each other on a turn by turn basis. If, like me, you are using your credit card as often as possible to amass airmiles which you can later redeem for flights, then you may benefit from installing this app. Splitwise allows you to add multiple members to your group and keeps a tally of how much each member spends (in any currency). At the end of your trip the app will offer you to settle up the account whereby each group member receives the total they owe – it will even (if you upgrade to the paid version) convert multiple currencies into a single one (based on the current exchange rate). My travelling buddy and I got a real kick out of sending some reminders to settle up which to our eyes appeared to border on passive aggressive (see below).
Hate air travel? You’re doing it wrong!
If you don’t already have airport lounge privileges then I strongly recommend you get them. Check with your bank and others about credit cards which give you lounge access. When I lived in Korea, I had a Shinhan credit card which gave me Priority Pass and now in the UAE I have Lounge Key access with both my ADCB and HSBC cards. The extra premium you pay on the cards will pay off if you travel frequently. Airport lounges offer you a comfortable place to stay, entertainment, wifi, charging and showering facilities as well as unlimited food and drinks. When you add up the money you spend in airport restaurants and add that to those torture devices passing for airport seating, it’s definitely worth looking into. If your country doesn’t offer these banking benefits then you can still purchase Priority Pass membership with differing levels of benefits according to the package you choose.
Frequent flyer clubs
My advice is to sign up to them all! If you have difficulty remembering what you hold membership with it’s easy to manage with a smart wallet. I use Samsung Pay, preloaded on my Samsung S9 which allows you to store your loyalty cards, meaning payment and points can be completed in one single digital transaction. If, like me you’re a points nerd then you will find a credit card which will optimise your purchase power by giving you airmiles per transaction. For example, I currently hold an ADCB Etihad Guest card which gives you one Etihad airmile per 4AED spent. Over 3 years by using this as my primary card I have benefited from 3 return airfares as well as enjoying Gold status which yields business lounge, extra baggage allowance, priority check in, boarding and fast track immigration privileges. Using partners for car rentals, hotel bookings or booster apps like Rocketmiles and Pointshound will boost your miles too although be prepared to pay a little over the average rate. Useful, if you are looking to boost your tier miles, however. It’s also useful to note that members of frequent flyer clubs will be offered upgrades before non-members.
Optimising your seating options
Needless to say, with lounge access, arriving to the airport early is a joy as you mentally plan how many beverages you require to be adequately sleepy in transit. In reality I usually end up watching back to back movies on the entertainment system and falling asleep approximately 1 hour before landing. Some other random tips for you, if you want to get really nerdy and get the best bang for your economy buck then check out Seat Guru which will give you a review of the seating plan for your flight and ensure you are not stuck in that seat which doesn’t recline one row from the back (yes Korean Air flight circa 2012, I’m talking about you). If you want to get your chow on as soon as the service begins then opt for a special meal, you will receive and have eaten your meal long before the general service begins and can curl up and food coma the flight away. If you choose a special meal it will be more difficult to obtain a last minute upgrade so you roll the dice with that. I have only ever received one upgrade despite being enrolled in all the Frequent Flyer clubs and that was due to the entertainment system not functioning on a full flight in economy.
To roam or not to roam.
To be honest, unless your trip is less than 5 days then I would usually advocate purchasing a sim card in the country you intend to travel in, especially if, like me, you are joined to the internet with an unseverable umbilical cord. Even the best roaming packages will generally be unable to satisfy your data dependence on Google Maps navigation and social media. However, in saying that, if you want to decrease your dependency on instant data access I suggest using MapsMe which allows you to download maps to use offline, allowing you to navigate without relying on data.
I have always had an inexplicable infatuation with America, especially the Southern States. Perhaps this can be blamed on a diet of American TV shows growing up and first teenage crushes on those ruggedly handsome cowboys riding through Westerns, who epitomized my idea of masculinity. To this day, the sound of any Southern accent makes me weak at the knees. Southern Florida, where it seems all the men boat, fish, hunt, camp, drive beefy pick up trucks and look like they could build or weld something for you at the drop of the hat, was my happy place for over a week.
Getting around
My rental, as soon as I sat in I realised I want an even bigger one!
I rented a pickup at Fort Lauderdale Hollywood International Airport from Enterprise Rental for $44 per day in preparation for a road trip. I like to drive something which feels like it could crush or eat most of the other vehicles, so a pickup is my spirit vehicle. Renting a car in the U.S. is incredibly easy, I have done so on my Irish, UAE and South Korean drivers license in the past. Driving in Florida is also horribly easy, I used Google Maps navigation when I had data and Maps.Me ( https://maps.me/ )for offline use so there is no need to pay extra for a navigation system with the vehicle.
fort lauderdale
My primary reason for going to Fort Lauderdale was to attend The Matthew Hussey Retreat ( http://www.matthewhussey.com/ ). I started following Matthew Hussey around 4 years ago after a breakup, when in the bleak aftermath of post mortem analysis you start searching for answers to the endless internal monologue. Matt offers practical advice and strategies devoid of that annoying fluff much self-help can favor and without the ardent evangelical vibe of some other renowned life coaches. The venue The Marriott Beach and Harbor Resort, a truly beautiful location, which certainly provided detachment from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Whilst best known for his dating and relationship advice, the retreat offered so much more and was truly a transformational and empowering experience for me. I would recommend any woman who has the means to do this as I have learned lessons I wish I had understood decades ago and the whole week was a succession of “Aha” moments. On top of that I have met an incredible and supportive group of women whom I am still in touch with and will be friends for life, I am sure. Follow Matt on Instagram, YouTube or Facebook to get an idea of what he is about yourself or contact me directly if you want to know more about my personal experience.
miami beach
Miami, my friends, is expensive. I paid a small fortune in both street and covered parking facilities during my 2 night stay near Miami Beach at the Getty Suites ( https://thegettysuites.com/ ). The studio was fully stocked with appliances and perfect for self-catering accommodation. It was also the cheapest private room I found in the area at $69 per night before tax. There are no shortage of eating and drinking options in Miami, a definite party vibe, everywhere appears to be “clothing optional” and getting around by electric scooter is trending.
Everglades and Alligators
Everglades Safari – view from the airboat
A trip to the Everglades is, in my opinion, a must for anyone who is a nature and greenery enthusiast. There is no need to pre-book an Everglades tour unless, of course, you do not have your own personal transportation, in which case there are no shortage of tour operators based in Miami. We stopped at Everglades Safari Park ( http://www.evergladessafaripark.com/ ) which boasted the same offerings as the other operators we passed; Airboat tour, alligator show and nature walk. The ticket cost $28 for adults and $15 for kids aged 5-11.
The largest sized airboats, private tours in smaller boats are also available.
You can practically see my skin burning here.Spot the gator – a real life magic eye picture!
Look mom! A baby gator!!
I opted for the large airboat tour, the guides are knowledgeable and happy to answer any and all ridiculous questions. We did, in fact, spot a gator after we disembarked which was just hanging out next to the jetty. I can only assume it was waiting for a stray child to snack on. The gator show also did not disappoint. We were treated to delightful moments where you are teased with the possible gory spectacle of a trainer having his hand chomped off as it passes through a prehistoric and sinister looking toothy jaw. Everyone left the show with limbs intact and some great Insta worthy shots to prove we had all actually been there.
the florida keys: accommodation
The drive down to the Keys is stunning, you will want to stop everywhere. If you are a craft beer drinker, there are a number of breweries which you might want to check out along the way in Islamadora ( https://www.islamoradabeerco.com/ ). I was keen to make my way down to Key West which is the southernmost town so made an overnight stop in Key Largo where I paid the most I’ve ever paid to date for a Holiday Inn at $190 (inclusive of tax) for a night. In Key West accommodation is also pricey, I found this gem, Casablanca, in Old Towne on Duval Street for $150 per night ( https://www.keywestcasablanca.com/ ) The room was spacious, towels and robes were fluffy and breakfast to the tune of $10 was included.
Food and drink in key west
Kitsch, quirky and artsy vibes in Key West
Harpoon Harry’s for delicious diner food
Lobster Benedict with home fries and Key Lime Pie. Foodgasm!
One of my favourite things about road trips in the U.S. are the diners, Harpoon Harry’s ( http://www.harpoonharryskeywest.com/ ) is a must if you like diner food and friendly staff. I had my first slice of Key Lime Pie here and yes, it is as amazing as everyone says it is! You can also get Key lime cocktails, frappes, french toast and any other Key Lime food or drink variations you could possibly think of in this town.
Indulge in beer heaven at Waterfront Brewery ( https://www.thewaterfrontbrewery.com/ ) where IPA and beer lovers can feel righteous as they drink and learn at the same time. Sloppy Joes ( https://sloppyjoes.com/ ) is another firm local favourite which used to be a haunt of the literary hellraiser Ernest Hemmingway and now serves up a bustling atmosphere of food, drinks and live music. Two Friends is another friendly bar where you can partake of the aforementioned Key West frozen cocktails, or deliciousness in a glass as I like to call it. If you want to go fancy then check out the artisan cocktails and mixology in General Horseplay ( https://www.generalhorseplay.com/ ) where you can roll the dice to get among other things a $1 cocktail! General Horseplay put the class into day drinking with their aesthetically pleasing beverages and drinking receptacles which make you squeal in delight (yes, giant gold gnome, I’m talking about you!). This girl walked away somewhat relieved that her $1 cocktail now offset the horrific $20 for an hour of parking she was charged at the nearby private lot.
Pictured above in Old Town Tavern , Dean’s meat candy. “You have not lived until you’ve tried this” quote from unfaithful vegetarian. Out of shot Mac n Cheese Balls, also frighteningly tasty.
Last but not least, you must pay Jessica and Justin a visit at the Old Town Tavern ( https://oldtowntavernkw.com/ ), this was my “Cheers” and I met so many great people here both in front of and behind the bar. My neighbour and friend in the UAE, suggested I say “Hi” to Jess, her Crossfit buddy from years back in the U.K. a now Key West resident and the rest is history. I developed a huge lady crush on Jessica, who was generous enough to entertain, host and show me around Key West. In true Pride fashion we got trashy matching henna tattoos of each other’s names as a souvenir. if you drop in you might be fortunate to meet Dean, sitting at the end of the bar after his shift. Chef Dean is a wizard in the kitchen who uses his powers for the greater good and is solely responsible for me cheating on vegetables. Dean waxed lyrical with seductive promised of meat candy, or burnt ends to those of you familiar with barbecue lingo. I was sold at “Meat Candy” and I regret nothing! Old Town Tavern also turned out to be the setting for one of my three green card marriage proposals during my Florida trip so I think it’s safe to say you can find a good time here, if you’re looking for one.
Hemmingway and 6-toed cats
Lipin, my travel buddy elegantly modelling Hemmingway’s writing room where the magic happened.
The Hemmingway House ( https://www.hemingwayhome.com/ ) in Key West offers guided tours for $14 for adults and $11.50 for kids 6-12 years old. The guide recounts charming anecdotes about the literary genius including how he came to have 9 concussions in his lifetime and the cute meet stories of his four wives (Spoiler Alert: 3 of his wives were formerly bffs of the previous wife). It seems Hemmingway fell into the old “cute kitten multiplies into 100 cats a year later” trap which happens to the best of us. The cats now roaming the premises have a carefully cultivated genetic quirk which bestows an extra toe upon them This mutation has earned them “welfare cat” status with a permanent place at the home along with their very own free healthcare system and dedicated cemetery in the grounds. Include this visit on your itinerary if only for the genius underfloor air conditioning vents over which you can skillfully place a pant leg, whilst listening to the guide, and indulge in your very own much needed private air conditioning. It’s worth noting, at this point, that the Florida sun in Key West was relentless in it’s pursuit of a permanent high noon position. In the words of Baz Luhrmann, wear Sunscreen.
Kitty cat cemetery – is this 6-toed cat ready to croak?
I peered at this cat for at least a minute trying to get a good look at his 6 digits.
leaving home
Pride preparations
A unicorn, because why not?
Homage to Jess xxx
I fell head over heels in love with Key West. There is a strong community vibe here which reminded me so much of Ireland, you are surrounded by the ocean and sunshine and I met the most amazing people. There is clearly a holiday buzz as it is a popular holiday destination among both local and international visitors and visiting on Pride week amplified that feeling with Pride murals, rainbow crosswalks and cute boys in rainbow colored booty shorts strutting down the sidewalk together. This transient holiday feeling is underpinned, though, with something more substantial and you get the feeling residents here truly care about each other and their home. For the first time in my 43 countries of travel, I felt homesick leaving a place and have vowed I will find my way back soon.
Cuba is amazing, it’s like stepping back in time. The architecture, although mostly crumbling is fabulous and a throwback to pre-revolutionary times. Horse and buggies, the most delightful rainbow colourful classic cars, bikes, coco-taxis (think tuk-tuk but more spacious, bright yellow and shaped like a coconut!), bikes and buses all share the same roadways. People are outside all the time either using a wifi hotspot outside a hotel or park or salsa dancing in the street, just because. You can get a delicious rum cocktail quite literally anywhere, it’s safe and the people are friendly. If you haven’t been then get going soon!
Visa requirements for U.S. and non U.S. citizens
There is a whole lot of misleading information out there about travel to Cuba from the U.S.A. To clear up a few of the myths here is a shortlist of required information.
Yes, both U.S. and non U.S. citizens may board a flight bound leaving a U.S. airport for Cuba. In fact, non residents abide by exactly the same immigration laws as U.S. citizens in this respect.
Cuba Visa Kiosk at Fort Lauderdale Airport. Fly direct to Havana from Miami, Fort Lauderdale, Orlando, Houston, and New York.
U.S. citizens may apply for a visa online ( https://www.ivisa.com/cuba-blog/how-to-get-a-cuba-visa-online), however there are some airports where you can purchase a visa at a kiosk which is, in fact, what I did. The entire process is embarrassingly easy and convenient. In Fort Lauderdale International airport the kiosk was located directly next to the Southwest Airlines check in counter. You pay $75 (no cash payments, card only) and they present you with a flimsy looking piece of paper which is your travel visa. Make a mistake on this at your peril, you will either be forking out another $75 or rick getting turned away by a pedantic immigration officer.
Directions in Fort Lauderdale Airport on how to complete your visa
Technically this is actually a Cuban Tourist Card but is interchangeably referred to as a visa
As of June 5th, 2019, the Trump administration have banned travel to Cuba on cruise ships. I met some unfortunate people who met the sharp end of this when their cruise abruptly turned away from Cuba in light of the new ban.
Accommodation, navigation, internet and currency.
I stayed in Havana for three nights near Prado de Malecon using a couple with Superhost status on Airbnb ( https://www.airbnb.ae/rooms/11625231?source_impression_id=p3_1561009092_5QKdDY9k32AQGVrx ). For those of you who have not used Airbnb, the site lists local hosts and their properties which you can make a reservation to stay in. These range from a private room in someone’s home to an entire apartment. Prices are generally considerably lower than listed commercial businesses of a similar standard. The advantage of staying with local hosts is they are invested in creating a great guest experience and you get to read reviews and communicate through the site before meeting. Yeni and Roly advised me to download the app Maps.me ( https://maps.me/ ) which was quite frankly a lifesaver as you cannot access it once in Cuba. Download the maps before departure so that navigation will work offline when you are in Havana.
For getting around, the buses are cheap and frequent, taxis are as in every country, generally a total rip off. I spent the majority of my budget on taxis I was paying the foreigner rate in. Rent a bike if you are anyway active it is a real pleasant way to get around the city and you generate your own breeze!
ETECSA internet cards which resemble old school phone calling cards.
The internet is an interesting and relatively new phenomena in Cuba. If a property advertises Wifi then be aware that this means there is a hotspot – to actually get internet time you need to buy ETECSA cards giving you an hour or time per card for 1 CUC (approximately $1) or double that if you are purchasing it from a third party. You can usually find Wifi around the public parks and hotels and resorts, which is why you see people hanging around on the street on their devices. ETECSA vendors will display the logo pictured below, or most resorts and hotels will sell them. On arrival at Havana international, if you go to the arrivals lounge you can purchase cards as well as use an ATM or exchange currency.
If you are a U.S. citizen then forget about using your bank cards to withdraw cash from the ATM, and unless you want to pay an extra 10% charge on currency exchange, I would recommend you purchasing Canadian dollars to exchange in the airport. Do make sure you have enough to last your entire trip. I was able to use my (United Arab Emirates) HSBC card with no problems at numerous ATMs in Havana, however my ADCB bank card was not accepted, so again I would recommend bringing Euros or Canadian dollars as a back up.
Club Tropicana
I highly recommend experiencing this colourful and over the top cabaret. Never have I seen so many perfectly formed bottoms gathered in one place! These are the most well known and longest running shows in Havana, the costumes and sometimes lack of them are truly mesmerizing and at one point the dancers come out with what can only be described as three storey chandeliers balanced upon their heads. How they can sashay and glide across the stage is astonishing. I reserved and paid in advance of my trip through their website ( https://www.cabaret-tropicana.com/en/ ) . The food is not going to earn any Michelin stars but the champagne and quart of rum quickly takes your mind off of it. At my table was an American family whose matriarch, now in her 60’s was on her first trip back since her emigration to the U.S.A. at 8 years of age. It was encounters like these which really contextualized the dramatic history of the Cuban people for me.
HOrseriding in Vinales, Cigar country
The spectacular view from our lunch spot in Vinales.
Another recommendation for solo travellers is to browse and utilise Airbnb experiences. Here you will find a variety of tours or experiences with locals. In my opinion, you get a better quality of interaction to commercial tours where you can feel like the guide is simply being paid to impart information. You also glean an interesting local perspective on cultural and historical influences. This trip was rated the top one on Airbnb experiences ( https://www.airbnb.ae/experiences/247222? ) and it did not disappoint. The Havana local guide, Dan, was a former teacher of English to Cuban students and his ability to include all group members and create a warm group atmosphere was evident. This experience was also one of the few that arranged a pickup, verging on Germanic punctuality, from your accommodation and is a great choice on your first day in Cuba to take all the thinking out of it.
Vinales tobacco farm
We were taken to Vinales which is cigar country, where the local farmers tell you about the process and then roll a cigar for you to try. You can also buy directly from the farmers themselves and sample their delicious rum coffee. It cost 5 CUC for 10 cigars which was a steal.
Some fellow trip members embracing the rum coffee and cigar look!
A cocoa plant!
The trip is a day long affair but is broken up at perfect intervals to allow you to visit a cave, through which you take a little boat ride through, an impressively large mural across a limestone rock face, horseriding through the country and of course a great value lunch at a high point where can admire the scenery.
Bike trip around the streets of Havana
Afro Cuban District
There are a multitude of Airbnb experiences offering a guided bike trip around Havana. I chose a 2 hour one which fit around the rest of my schedule. One stop was the Afro-Cuban neighbourhood which has in recent years become an art district, at one point, our guide told us, the African population was growing so much the Cuban government put a stop to the influx through fears the population would threaten the balance with local Cubans. Chinatown was another community which shrank drastically after the revolution. The Chinese who had come to labour and build infrastructure such as railroads had created a large community and local businesses in Havana. After the revolution, when much of the privately owned properties were absorbed by the government, many Chinese left to seek opportunities elsewhere.
Chinatown
Cuba in a convertible and Mafia memories
You never think about the wind factor before getting into a convertible. I was clutching my loose clothing around me to prevent accidentally flashing the driver and anyone else who passed.
No trip to Cuba is complete without the obligatory classic car photo opportunity. It’s all about the Insta! A word to the fashion and Insta conscious – forget having beautiful hair and outfit in a convertible (pictured above)! However if, like me, you want a twist then I would recommend the Airbnb Experiences: Revisit memories of the Mafia in Cuba ( https://www.airbnb.ae/experiences/94418? ). For starters, my Experiences host, Michele, is an Italian who moved to Cuba, married and became a permanent resident. Having an English speaker with an Italian accent tell you about the historic mafia influences in pre-revolutionary Cuba definitely adds a level of authenticity.
You are driven, with up to 3 other guests, around in a beautiful vintage convertible to some infamous hotel locations built with mafia money. After the revolution, just like those Chinese owned businesses, all the mafia properties were absorbed by the government. Michele paints a picture of the past at each location you would be unaware of had you simply been wandering around admiring the sights by yourself. He points out a former brothel, La Salon Rouge which boasted the best prostitutes in all Havana and which the chief of police would frequent and often take prostitutes for lavish private parties. I am shown the swimming pool of the in the shape of a coffin, a grim reminder of what might happen to those who stood in the way of the grand plan of Mafia business expansion across Cuba and the Caribbean. The trip is topped off with a free cocktail and cigar at a nearby bar.
Never enough time!
My trip was amazing! Things I didn’t do which I would have liked to try, were a cooking lesson in a Cuban home, salsa classes and generally I would have liked more time to drink delicious cocktails! Don’t be like me – I made the mistake of leaving souvenir shopping until the day of my departure. Unfortunately all the souvenir places (look for Arte markets) opened at 10:00 in the morning and I had to leave without spending all those pesos! Go for the unique cultural experience! Expect great cocktails, friendly locals, average food and embrace the forced offline time when you don’t have internet!
