UAE – Follow me over here

September 14, 2020

Visiting the United Arab Emirates: bonus day trip to Oman

One of the interesting political and geographical features of the UAE is the division of land borders. There are a number of enclaves of Oman, one at the tip of the emirate of RAK and another in the emirates of Fujairah and Sharjah. These enclaves came about when the land was divided according to tribal loyalty resulting in little pockets of land under the rulership of the Omani sheikh. The border crossing between RAK and Oman must be one of the most pleasant land border crossings I have encountered in my travels. Until recently you could walk across (many use this border to renew their visas and will cross over and back in the same trip), now registered vehicles need to be utilized to make the trip, although the local goats retain the privilege of unlimited free entry and exit. The border police are strongly advising the use of E-Visas now although at the time of writing this it was still possible to get a visa on the border.

I’ve consistently used Khasab Dhow Tours for the trips I’ve taken. If you want they will process the visa for you as well as arrange for transfers from RAK or Dubai. For a group full day tour they charge 140AED per person without visa or transfers and for a private half day charter I was quoted 1200AED. Each time I have been I have had the pleasure of watching pods of dolphins surf on the wake of our dhow. The dhows themselves are beautifully crafted traditional wooden vessels and perfect for lounging on deck and taking in the scenery. You are taken across beautiful clear blue waters to snorkel with pretty tropical fish and provided with a lunch of chicken, rice, salads and fresh fruit with soft drinks and water as refreshments. There are a number of other options available such as overnight trips and custom built charters.

If you prefer to self-drive make sure you contact your car rental agency in advance as you will require permission and some paperwork to prove you are eligible to drive the car in Oman. With your own vehicle, if your insurance doesn’t cover Oman then you can arrange temporary cover either over the phone, in advance, or at the border where you will find an insurance kiosk. You will need your car registration (gold card) as well as insurance documentation to proceed. The drive to Khasab town is stunning as if follows a coastal road carved out of the cliffs and you have ample opportunity to take in the fjords along the way. Throw a tent in the back and a grill and you will have your pick of beaches along the way where you can stop overnight and enjoy waking up to the sound of the ocean in the morning.

If you choose to camp there is a beautiful spot to do so where you might be fortunate to see natures ocean light show of bio-luminescence. The climb down the cliff can be a little hairy, if you have a bad relationship with heights, and you will need a 4WD to get up and down safely, but it’s worth the jaunt. It is a sufficiently “dark skies” spot to get quite the impressive star filled night canvas. Even thought this is a little-known camping spot it does attract expats, in the know, so if you want to stake a good claim on the small beach then arrive earlier in the weekend rather than later. It’s also worth remembering that the transport of alcohol across the border is illegal, so you if you feel like a few beers around your campfire, do so at your own risk.

Khasab town itself is not the most exciting place to stop overnight, there are a number of hotels. I stayed in Diwan Al Amir before and while it is perfectly adequate, you probably won’t be falling over yourself to take a million photos here. The most exciting thing to happen to me in Khasab was mistakenly exploring a very narrow road at precisely the time when the mosque was emptying out after Friday prayers. My travelling companion, at the time, also had fair skin and light colored hair and we literally stopped traffic as curious onlookers stopped in the road to look at these two very out of place women in the 4WD wandering aimlessly in their town. If you drive out past the town limits in any direction the road quite abruptly ends and you can off-road until you hit a rock face in any direction. Little villages and goats inhabit these farther reaches.

Khasab is about 85km from RAK city and will take you about 2 hours including the border crossing shenanigans. Be aware that tour groups will likely be travelling for an 8am start and returning across the border around 1 and 4pm from the half and full day tours. You will need to factor this in if you don’t want to stuck in a clog of traffic at the border checkpoints. If you arrange a bus transfer, of course, you just sit on your bus and wait for the agent to worry about the immigration checks.

August 29, 2020

Visiting the United Arab Emirates: third stop, Ras al Khaimah (RAK)

Via Ferrata on Jebel Jais – climbing and zipping adventures

As exciting as Abu Dhabi and Dubai are, if you love the feeling of freedom you get from being outdoor and near wide open spaces then you might gravitate towards RAK. Marketing itself as an adventure destination within the UAE, RAK boasts the highest mountain in the UAE, Jebel Jais. From here you can do the longest zipline in the world, climb via ferrata, go on guided hikes to wadis, go camping and soon you will be able to experience a sky maze which, quite frankly, scares the living daylights out of me. The zipline is fun but will cost you 300AED unless you wait for the summer or Ramadan promotions.

Rak Bedouin Oasis – Desert safari in comfort

One of the best desert safaris, in my opinion, is located at RAK Bedouin Oasis Camp. Here you can choose from a number of options where you can go on desert quad bike tours, camel rides, sand boarding, dune bashing (being driven fast up and down the sand dunes), henna painting, shisha smoking, overnight camping and enjoy an extensive buffet and small bar with live entertainment of traditional Turkish tanura dancing, fire juggling and belly dancing. Without transfers it costs about 150AED per person.

If this is all a little too outdoorsy for you, then there is a luxurious Ritz Carlton nearby where you can experience most of the above, for a lot more money, at a 5 star rating. The Ritz also offers horse riding and you can see Arabian Oryx roaming the grounds. There are fine dining and afternoon tea packages too and it’s worth checking out their festive themes when the time comes around.

*Watching sunset with a festive Christmas afternoon tea package at the Ritz Carlton, Al Wadi desert.*

If you want to get up close and personal with camels and oryx without spending that kind of cash then I recommend you take a detour down the aptly named camel road , which takes you through farmland, and you can see both. The camels here are well used to tourists stopping for a selfie so if you pick up some apples and carrots you will have the perfect bait for your social media wow factor. Just be warned, these camels don’t care about your perfect framing so, if you withhold snacks whilst you pose, you may find yourself in the middle of a camel scrum.

In the winter months you can opt to go glamping in RAK at the Bin Majid Resort nearby Flamingo Beach, which offers great options and activities for families. For a less expensive option you can get the camping experience on the public beach near Al Marjan Island although this is currently being elbowed out by a new beach resort being developed right next to it.

Al Marjan island – work out, eat and play!

Al Marjan island is equipped with an ocean-skirting running track, public park with kids play area and is also host to a multitude of resorts including the DoubleTree Hilton where you can take part in the best brunch in RAK (in my humble opinion). You can also enjoy kayaking or jetskiing here or at Turtle Beach just a little further out on the island. Opposite the DoubleTree, there is a public park and playground where you can rent electric scooters or peddle powered carts and bikes to trundle up and down the promenade next to the ocean views. There are some permanent food trucks set up here, including SALT which offer wagyu beef sliders to die for, cheeto fries, milkshakes and giant Jenga for your amusement.

Area 51 giving you a great Insta op with delicious food

While we are on the subject of eateries I have to give a shout out to Area 51 who offer great burgers and hotdog options and, hands down, win best milkshake in RAK. There’s also a quirky alien themed interior with horse riding saddles as bar stools, perfectly designed for some fun photos. Try it out and it will ruin all other milkshakes for you. Guaranteed.

April 5, 2020

Visiting the United Arab Emirates: second stop, Dubai.

The UAE is host to all the superlatives – biggest, tallest, fastest, greatest etc. The Burj Khalifa dominates Dubai’s skyline and sits across from the site of Emaar’s next engineering feat which looks to topple the Burj Khalifa from it’s 160 storey throne and take it’s place as the world’s future tallest building. The Burj Khalifa, however is no midget. There are a variety of tickets available for you to experience this beautiful building. We opted for the aptly named “High Tea” package costing 618AED per person. With this ticket you get to enjoy the view from the 152nd-154th floor, 585m up whilst munching on tiny cakes and sandwiches and plenty of hot tea and coffee. The views are spectacular and buildings you previously passed by, which seemed so large at the time, are now toy town sized from your new vista.

The Dubai Mall is nestled at the foot of the Burj Khalifa and has it’s very own app which will help you navigate. An ice rink is located inside and you can either join in the fun or you can choose to sit at one of the many cafes and restaurants and watch the ice adventures of others. You can also dive with sharks if you choose at Dubai Aquarium (from 120AED upwards), or if that doesn’t appeal – you can watch the brave for free from the outside. Every 30 mins you can see the fountain show set to music. I suggest you get a restaurant with a good vantage point as this is a popular tourist attraction and unless you are blessed with some height you may struggle to peer over the shoulders of taller audience members.

In the same area you can enjoy some culture and take in a show at the Dubai Opera House. We opted to watch The Nutcracker and this is truly a venue where you can dress in your best and not feel out of place at all. Finish it off with a glass of bubbles next to the real glass bubbles of a beautiful ground floor to ceiling light installation and you will definitely feel like you are living the life of the glamorous.

Mall of the Emirates is yet another colossal shopping mall. Inside this mall you can enjoy Ski Dubai, where there is an actual ski slope inside. There are many packages available including lessons and if you dare to visit the UAE in the summer time I’m sure it would be a welcome blast of coolness.

If you are all malled out and feel the need to stretch your legs outside whilst getting some grammable moments then take a trip to Miracle Gardens where, for 55AED for adults and 40AED for children aged 3-12 years old, you can marvel at the giant living floral and topiary masterpieces. With plenty of cafes and seating areas, this would make a great day trip to lounge, picnic and chat or read. Not far from here there is a Butterfly garden where admission costs the same.

For a spot of historical charm and culture you can head to Al Fahidi District, where the streets and buildings are laid out in an old town and souk feel. If you arrive here before 10 am you can treat yourself to a traditional breakfast with labneh, feta, tabouleh, olives, humus and breads to dip with along with some tea or Arabic spiced coffee. There are plenty of little shops to buy souvenirs in, try camel milk ice cream and workshops displaying the work of local artists. Not too far from here is the Gold Souk where you can practice your haggling skills to get a bargain on that bling you want for yourself or gifts for family and friends.

We spent 3 nights in Dubai at the Tamani Hotel Apartments, there is a metro stop next to the hotel and beaches are nearby. It’s worthwhile noting when you book accommodation in Dubai the city is spread out pretty far. Deira, to the east, is where you are likely to get the cheapest accommodation and is part of old Dubai, the downtown area is set in the middle where the Dubai Mall, Opera House etc. are and The Palm is on the western most end and home to some very fancy resorts and beaches.

We barely touched the surface of things to do in Dubai and I will add later posts about some of the fun activities you can enjoy. The next emirate on our list was where I currently call home, Ras al Khaimah, or RAK as it’s known which I will tell you about in the next post.

March 30, 2020

Visiting the United Arab Emirates: first stop Abu Dhabi

The United Arab Emirates celebrated it’s 49th National Day on 2nd December, 2019. Comprised of 7 emirates; Abu Dhabi, where the crown prince reigns, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm al Quwain, Ras al Khaimah and Fujairah. Each emirate has it’s own sheikh and ruling families but all are united as a country. My parents and I got to watch just one of the scheduled National Day celebratory fireworks from JBR, The Walk, in Dubai.

My father, having a background in engineering and an interest in the feat of building such impressive structures in the desert, had expressed interest in visiting the UAE. My mother was, however, originally less enthralled with the idea, especially as she possesses the typical English rose style of complexion which demands sun parasols and liberal coatings of sun cream. And so it came about that I arranged for both of them to visit me for 9 days. For anyone coming from cooler countries, it is best to visit the UAE in the winter months from October to March, where the temperature will gradually decrease to average a pleasant 25C during the daytime.

As with any country, before you travel it is advisable to have knowledge of the laws of that country. Although maybe not seen as liberal when compared with some western attitudes, the UAE practices tolerance towards visitors from other cultures. With a population comprised of 82% foreign residents it is remarkable to witness the hospitable attitude and welcome offered by Emirati hosts. Do, please, check the medications you bring to the UAE to ensure they are not on the controlled and restricted list, as with any prescriptions it is recommended you bring the scrip with you. Contrary to popular opinion, you can purchase and drink alcohol in the UAE. Public drinking (not in a licensed premises) is prohibited. If in doubt, just ask. One of the most common questions I get are from women about dress code. You can wear what you like, just be respectful. Beach clothing is for the beach and on religious sites, like many other countries in the world, you will be expected to dress more modestly. Public displays of affection such as kissing and cuddling are not the norm. and although many hotels may operate under a don’t ask don’t tell policy, it is actually against the law to cohabit with a member of the opposite sex unless you are related by blood or marriage.

In Abu Dhabi, the capital city in the emirate of the same name, The Emirates Palace (owned by Kempinski) and Presidential Palace are located right next to each other There are afternoon tea packages available and I would highly recommend the experience if you care to dabble in luxury. The interior is lavishly decorated with marble and is dripping in gold and your Royal Afternoon Tea (499AED per person) is an echo of this as you are served beautiful and delicate bites topped off with the finale of a 23 karate gold flake garnished cappuccino. I let myself down by inhaling and spluttering on said gold and took it as a clear sign that this kind of treatment is not meant for the likes of me. A pianist and then harpist provided live musical accompaniment to our dining experience.

At Qasr al Watan, aka. The Presidential Palace, you are once again impressed by the grandiose architecture. Two enormous doors are opened by permanently stationed doormen and you are left gazing, wide-eyed, at the finery and sculptures contained within. There are a number of different rooms contained within, such as the Great Hall, Library, House of Knowledge, Presidential Banquet and, my favourite room, Presidential Gifts. In this room was displayed the gifts brought by visiting heads of state and dignitaries – a crystal offering from my home country amoungst the many traditional swords and daggers with decorated scabbards, ornately covered Quarans and numerous other impressive pieces behind glass.

If you want to look like the chic Emirati ladies, you can purchase abayas and shaylas at the underground stores near the mosque, otherwise you will be donning smurf blue and monk red loaners which happen to be quite warm too. Golf carts are available for those with mobility issues to traverse the expansive grounds.

The Sheikh Zayad Grand Mosque lives up to it’s name and is, indeed, grand. As part of the must see tourist attractions of Abu Dhabi, be prepared to be amongst a lot of people. Abayas for women, and kandoras for men are available to wear if your dress is not appropriate, although do not expect them to be the sleek and stylish garments you will see Emiratis wearing. I had a rather unflattering shade of rose and was therefore not compelled to take many selfies. It’s well worth availing of one of the free tours for visitors. Led by an Emirati guide, you will be issued headphones and brought into the grand mosque where one of the most impressive facts and sights is that of the 12 tonne chandelier hanging from the center dome. The beautiful building is a functioning place of worship.

My parents visit happened to coincide with the Formula One and as luck would have it, I was fortunate enough to receive free tickets as a thank you for participating as a judge the previous year in the F1 in schools contest. After parking at Yas Marina Mall, we took a free shuttle to the south grandstand and watched the qualifying race. Inside the venue you need to purchase a special card which you top up with your credit card in order to buy snacks and beverages. The F1 event management team travels with the F1, in effect Yas Marina Circuit temporarily hands the facilities over for the duration of the F1 and credit where it’s due, everything ran smoothly, with road traffic, security and pedestrian flow. Outside of race season it is possible to book Yas Marina Circuit experiences such as driving on the track or touring the facilities.

Some of my favourite pieces. The last being Bacchus the god of wine apparently too inebriated to get out of his giant chalice of wine. Relatable?

Recently in 2019, Abu Dhabi opened The Louvre, a rather impressive looking building housing an equally impressive collection or art and artifacts from around the world. This had been my second visit and I was struck , again, by how much there is to take in on a visit. You can rent audio guides at the entrance and wheelchairs are also available for those with limited mobility. In fact you can take a golf cart direct from the accessible parking to the entrance of the museum, making life much easier for those who would otherwise struggle. Entry is free for People of Determination plus one, along with the free rental of an audio guide. Regular ticket price is 60AED per adult and half that for senior citizens and children aged 13-22.

We spent just 2 nights in Abu Dhabi, however the emirate boasts many more exciting experiences. Like all the emirates, the city has coastal access to the ocean and therefore many beach or island adventures. There are also mangroves you can paddleboard or kayak around, parks and nature reserves, museums and cultural experiences and a plethora of dining options. There are numerous tour operators which will bundle a few experiences in together on a day trip with hotel pick ups – you can even base yourself in Dubai and organize a trip from there to Abu Dhabi. Dubai, which is often confused as being a country in and of itself, will be the topic of my next post.